Ven conmigo a Otavalo

Before I whisk you off to Otavalo, I have to mention the smell of cooking vegetables in my apartment. To me, it smells like autumn in Minnesota with the carrots, onions, garlic, fennel, tomato paste, and celery simmering on the stove for homemade stock. (It seems stocks do not exist here, but bullion cubes do. My Omnivore's Dilemma reading and Forks Over Knives viewing self just can't fathom all that MSG and salt in my food.) So, the apartment feels a little cozier this evening with the hint of home in the air.

Okay, let's hop in the car and head north, now, to that amazing market in the quintessential Ecuadorian town of Otavalo. Buckle up. And I mean it. The two lane highways here will give your stomachs a run for their money.

As we drive, or as Ana drives because, in my opinion, there is no way any of us North Americans should be in the driver's seat here, notice the drop off to the right side of the road. If you look to the left, you'll be looking straight up at mountainous rock. Straight ahead their is a pokey tour bus. We're in line to pass that bus, and luckily we trust Ana to do so only after looking to make sure that there is no one coming at us head on. White crosses appear on the side of the road frequently to mark fatal accidents. Mom, I know this is a little nerve-wracking, but you don't have to white knuckle it so much. Ana really is being quite careful. 

After 2.5 hours of driving, we've now pulled into Otavalo. 

Quaint characteristics such as the stain-glassed street lights add beauty to the town. People are milling about, keeping the tranquilo pace of South America as aromas of roasting plantains swirl through the air. After we park in a little dirt lot off of the street, we meander over to a friendly enough looking man to see which direction to the artesenias. After a couple of blocks of walking south? north? east? maybe west, directions never have been my strong suit (did you bring your compass?), the view becomes tantalizing. Homemade arts and crafts and more are everywhere. 

Is your heart beat increasing just a bit with the excitement of making some great Christmas present purchases? If so, we are so on the same page. As we mill about, we realize that it might be a tough balance to strike between thinking of Christmas, and thinking of ourselves. It is chillier in Quito than we'd expected, and how sweet to have a new sweater made in Otavalo? And there are those very white walls to spruce up back at the apartment. Probably one stop at the cash machine wouldn't hurt the bank too much, especially since Ana agrees that she won't let us go back for a second withdrawal. While we can usually uphold a conservative reign on our cash, thanks to money manager Padre, it seems the Baci-woman shopper is on the loose. 

Dang, shopping makes us hungry, doesn't it? The artist whose paintings we've just purchased has pointed us towards a good place for almuerzo. An appetizer of avocado and shrimp, followed by cream of mushroom soup, and then a plate of beef with sides of Ecuadorian potato cakes and various types of corn (that we did share with Ana so as not to induce a food coma) boosts our energy for more bargain hunting...or bargain bartering...

Happy sigh. We found some great stuff for the house, our own wardrobes, and that family at home that we miss so much. We load the car down with all of our bags and then head a bit further north to Ibarra, where one of Ana's brothers, Junior, lives. We are picking up Pancho, another brother, at Junior's because Pancho is taking a puppy from Junior's back to Quito. While we wait for Pancho to arrive, it's about time for a snack. Frozen yogurt. Que delicioso! 

We pick up some treats from the vendors on the corners too. Never mind that we've eaten more sugar in the past two weeks than we did the entire summer. (But good thing we joined the gym last week and spinning awaits us on Monday evening.) After wolfing down the frozen yogurt, and watching Ana slowly savor hers, damos un paseo around the different squares of Ibarra. There are some beautiful sites. 

Beauty is sometimes dualistic as most squares have majestic statues...that were built by the Christian Spaniards to keep the pagan Incas from doing ritual dances. Nearly every square, surrounded by flowers and filled with trees, also includes a church on one end, and a statue in the center. 

Ana's phone rings, and it's Poncho saying that he is at Junior's house. A five minute drive lands us at Junior's where we meet more of Ana's sobrinos. They are all deliciously adorable. 

As is this puppy that will be our sweet companion on the way home (when it is dark, and the two-lane highways have no lights). 

This is puppy's ayudame pose, and help him we do with lots of love and pets. Gus, Mama misses your spunky self to the moon and back. (Now stop peeing in Taira's food dish and eating muffins off of the counter!) 

Arriving back in Quito, I am exhausted, but I am also determined to find my second wind so that I can grab a drink with some friends and hit up the Salsa club! 

So glad we got to take a day trip together. Where do you want to go next?