Sunday, April 1, 2018

Life with Chinese Characteristics, Chapter 16: Under the Sri Lankan sun

Enchantment is a word that often carries with it an allusion to fairy tales. Enchanted castles, enchanted forests, enchanting knights in shining armor. The word has taken on a new connotation for me throughout my travels. I have discovered a great deal of beauty as I have explored parts of South America and Asia; nestled in to rustic and quaint abodes, I have found many adventures and places of peace. Perhaps the first time that these two elements came together most deeply was when I landed in Cuzco and set out on the Inka trail with Liz. The lush green jungle in the cloud forest air that mingled with the history along those steps certainly did enchant me. The experience spoke to some part of my soul, filling me with awe and wonder. This past week I was enchanted by another land. 

I arrived very late to Villa de Zoysa, a yoga retreat two hours outside of Sri Lanka's capital, Colombo. When I awoke to take a closer look at my surroundings, I found immediately that the spirit of the villa and the space surrounding me awoke my spirit.

Morning sunlight filters into my room.
Stepping outside of my room, this was my first daylight view of the colonial home built in 1907.
The shala where we practiced yoga in the morning and early evening each day.
View of the pool and mansion from inside the shala. This was a beautifully serene place to practice yoga.
Kindred connections are those where some part of your soul awakens, and in standing in that land, or next to that person, you have a strong sense that you are just where you are supposed to be. And so it was with Sri Lanka.

I hope that you'll continue to read along with my words, both poetry and prose, to feel something of the charm of the 'The most beautiful island in the world.'


Above the white waves cresting
thin gossamer clouds form and float lazzily
under the Sri Lankan sun
Around the sun a large orb circles
Perhaps the sun's own kind of shadow --
-- not of darkness but of light
I lay my head back and breath in 
inhaling deeply the sweet sea air
The scene surrounding me is spotted by sunbathers,
friends running into the waves
as laughter rings out
and chimes in the breeze
a Sri Lankan woman wearing a baseball cap
to cover the top of her long braid
sells bright colored silk bed tapestries
while jet skiis play in the distance
and small boats rock gently in the water
as a lone snorkeler kicks by

Appearing rather sun-kissed here, those rays had their way with my
Northern Italian-German-Scandinavian
skin after an afternoon of sunbathing.
Sri Lankan scene -- roadside fruit market.
Sri Lankan scene -- stilt fishermen.

The sun sets in Sir Lanka
setting the sky on fire
reflecting onto the shore

After my day at the beach, I spent the following afternoon in Galle, a short tuk-tuk ride from the villa. 

An Unesco World Heritage Site, Galle is surrounded by an expansive wall as the city was founded by Portuguese colonialists in the 1500s. It is a town with a rich history. Walking its streets you will pass mosques, churches, museums, and Dutch colonial architecture. There are delightful cafes like Poonies where you may enjoy a light lunch surrounded by a lovely ambiance. 





Under the Sri Lankan sun I sit
atop the fort in Galle
Seagulls squak
lovers look into each others' eyes
Buddhist monks and European tourists traverse
the path along the ancient wall
Glass aquamarine waves keep rolling below me
creating hypnotic sounds of the sea

Villa de Zoysa is owned by a man named Devinda. He comes from a family with a rich and interesting history, and I hope some of you reading this post might some day get to sit and talk with Devinda about the stories of his past, and how his present came to be. He is an excellent host. One afternoon he took another guest, Lola who arrived from Paris, and me to a Buddhist temple that was off the beaten path. 



Sitting by the beach later this afternoon Devinda was telling me more about what he has learned from Buddhism. As large waves crashed into rocks that jutted out of the sea, Devinda spoke to me about the Middle Way. In Buddhist philosophy, the Middle Way is about balance. While the world is full of opposites, our work is to find the center of it all. I pondered this as I watched the rolling waves, mesmerized by their beauty. The pace of our modern approach to life often makes me feel that I am in the center of one of those waves, turning and rolling over, unable to find the surface, to catch my breath.

It was amidst all of the beauty that was my time in Sri Lanka that I found my center. Sri Lanka offers many opportunities to explore and discover, but I consciously chose to stay close to my abode for the week. Life in Shenzhen has been moving at a harried pace this year. What I was seeking on this trip was stillness. With a slower pace, both in yoga classes in the day's relaxing activities, my senses began to calm. 


She lives a dream
wholly awake.


Under the Sri Lankan sun
she opens her heart to the sea.


She is not a lady in waiting
She is not wishing
or wanting
She is already whole
in the world.

On my last night at Villa de Zoysa, Devinda took a group of us to another nearby temple. There we were blessed by a Buddhist monk as he tied a white string around our wrists. When we sat down to dinner after returning from the temple, I asked Devinda what the monk had said in his blessing. "I did not catch it all," he replied, but what I did hear was "May the wisdom, foresight and light guide you." And so it may be with all of us, this is my Easter prayer.














Sunday, February 25, 2018

Chinese New Year 2018: #BacisInHawaii

After over 24 hours of travel back from Hawaii, I am curled up with Patacón in my Shenzhen living room, looking forlornly outside at our airpocalypse, already reminiscing about the blue skies in Maui and the sounds of my nieces laughing and playing in the pool. 

I do not know what I did in my past life, but it must have been a lot of good to be born into this Baci family. This past week was so full of fun ... and quotable moments from the chica littles. 


The week began in Honolulu with Cass and Tom. My youngest sister is the best self-appointed travel agent I have ever met. She does not know it yet, but I am about to begin using her for all of my Asia trips; the woman is a whiz at using Trip Advisor and bloggers to book the best restaurants and excursions. This winter she did the research for us and booked herself, Tom and I tickets to see Pearl Harbor. The past number of years I have read quite extensively about the history of other countries, but there is so much about my own country's history of which I am unaware. The 20 minute introductory film on what led up to Pearl Harbor as well as the events of December 7, 1941, and ferry out to the USS Arizona memorial was informative and moving. 

The memorial sits atop the submerged hull of the USS Arizona. The shape of the memorial is significant. Alfred Preis, the architect, said, "Wherein the structure sags in the center but stands strong and vigorous at the ends, expresses initial defeat and ultimate victory ... The overall effect is one of serenity. Overtones of sadness have been omitted to permit the individual to contemplate his own personal responses ... his innermost feelings."

The flag waved in a soft wind the day we visited. It was at half mast in memory of those recently lost in the Florida school shooting. Being an American, I have a passport that affords me great privilege. I am proud of my country in many ways, though this pride is not unwavering. I hope that we can do right by one another, and the children in our country as discussions of gun laws persist. My friend Lindsay's husband, J.P., recently wrote and published a piece in the MinnPost as part of the discussion.

After the 24 hour stopover in Honolulu, we flew to meet the rest of the crew in Maui. Living thousands of miles away with my furry princess, I miss out on many moments with my family. I was delighted to be present for so many precious moments on this trip. Especially for times when Gia Boo announces, with a blue mouth from her crushed ice, "A smurf came in my mouth last night." I'm. still. laughing. And happy to note that I have strong control of my bladder.

Engaging in conversations with the littles, or simply listening in to ones they were having with each other, was one of my favorite parts of the trip. Gia is a comedian without even knowing it, but she is also asking those questions of curiosity, like, "How are we on the world?" I cocked my head as I listened to Linds respond, wondering if I would take a spiritual or scientific approach to that one. 

Gia is also full of sage advice. I took her to the gym to workout with me the first morning that we were all together. She often works out with Linds and Jon at home. She brings the intensity, and diplomatically reminded me that next time we should get our water ahead of time so that we aren't left to be parched and panting in the middle of a HIIT workout. 

In addition to offering her auntie some wisdom, Gia also offered Natalie a tip as Nat was going back and forth with Payton. "She won't answer me back and it's so ruuuuude," Nat complained from the back of the vehicle. "Count to 60," Gia evenly replied. I like that I thought. Usually we give ourselves or someone else 10 seconds to get shit together, but you know, when you're irritated with your sister, it's gonna take more than 10 to stop being annoyed with her antics. I think this is a better rule to live by, in fact, inside the classroom, in line to cross the border back into China, or when Lil P is protesting in the middle of the night. Count to 60. 

While the girls were bickering a bit on this particular car ride (the kind of bickering that used to get Linds and Cass and I an "I'm going to pull over and leave you on the side of the road" response), most of the time they were doing a lot of "chilaxing" together, as Natalie put it. 

One of my most treasured roles in life is being an auntie. If ever the world has you feeling like chopped liver, get yourself a niece or four. It's one of my favorite things to hear them call out my name as we play in the pool, and to reach for my hand as we walk to dinner. They bring the joy. 

Are they mermaids or bugs? Perhaps a little bit of both, and certainly the cutest little humans. 
Uncle Tommy, papa in training.
Niece number 5 arrives in May! Classic photo of Cass (one of my favorites) ... and Payton with the photo bomb.
First borns with the Mama-Amma
They are the rays of sunshine.
#bacicrew #baciblood #natalieisabella #happyrunsinthefamily


Gia Boo watching the waves roll in and seeing if she can spot a whale in the distance. 
The whale watching that we did together with Hawaiian Ocean Rafting was a family favorite. February is a bit rainier in Hawaii, but the timing was perfect for spotting all kinds of whale-tail waves, breeches, and squealing as a whale came so close to our boat that it seemed we could almost reach out and touch it. 

This day was also gorgeous and warm. The sun and smiles were out.
Tres chicas bonitas.
Look that way!
That whale tail has the strongest muscle in the animal kingdom! 
Just swimming by to say hello ... a jaw dropping moment,
Can't help but smile back when I look at those faces.
The rest of the week was full of morning mimosas

Cheers to my Gram. XOXO
a scuba dive with Dad

Our last dives were in the Galapagos. Pretty darn lucky to dive such beautiful waters.


Diving through underwater lava formations.
Not featured: the frog fish, puffer fish and trumpet fish that we were excited to see.

and enjoying these views:


Gma and her little flock. 
The littles with their Amma. 
Watching those waves crash against the rocks below.
Editor of National Geographic's Adventure Classics Anthony Brandt said, "Other things may change us, but we start and end with the family." This is my truth. I do not feel like the same person who left Minnesota for a life abroad nearly five years ago, but I am still the same granddaughter, daughter, sister and friend. I cherish the time we all get to be together. It is time full of laughter and love. 

The Hawaiian sun set on this family vacation, and with it rose many memories. 

Our truest life is when we are in our dreams awake. ~Henry David Thoreau












                                               




















Sunday, January 14, 2018

What does poetry speak to you?

Some 10 years ago, NieNie shared a poem with me by Bohemian-Austrian poet Rainer Maria Rilke. The wisdom and beauty of it has stuck with me through the years, and it remains my favorite poem today. 

These past several years, my spirituality has taken on a more nebulous form than in my childhood, teenage years and into young adulthood. My faith has not been lost, but certainly more difficult to define and articulate. I find and feel God now less through church services, and more though nature, the light I see my students and loved ones project, the light I work to offer the world, and through things like poetry. 

Each time I read this poem, it is a spiritual experience. It has been so woven into my soul that yesterday I made one of the lines a permanent physical part of me -- I say with some levity and humor, this is the biggest commitment I've ever made in my life. 

Last night, NieNie came to me in my dream. She was still sick, but more real to me than since the day she passed last year. 

I hope that she is still watching over. I hope she comes to visit in my dreams again. 

I am grateful for the wisdom and words, especially this poem, that she shared with me throughout the time we spent together. I've shared it with all of you before, but it is worth reading a million times, breathing in the imagery and beauty over and over again.

God speaks to each of us as he makes us,
then walks with us silently out of the night.
These are the words we dimly hear:
You, sent out beyond your recall,
go to the limits of your longing.
Embody me.
Flare up like a flame
and make big shadows I can move in.
Let everything happen to you: beauty and terror.
Just keep going. No feeling is final.
Don’t let yourself lose me.
Nearby is the country they call life.
You will know it by its seriousness.
Give me your hand.

Book of Hours, I 59